If you want to feel pampered then having heated floors is something you might like to consider. It has that air of luxury about it which even the Roman’s loved all those centuries ago. But a lot of people think it’s going to both costly and will be difficult to install.

However in recent years electric underfloor heating has become more and more popular with allsorts of people. This popularity has meant that prices have dropped so it is now an affordable option. But not only that, installing underfloor heating is relatively straightforward and something most people can do themselves and it’s surprisingly quick. It’s only the connecting to the mains that needs a qualified electrician.

Many people first install underfloor heating when they are refurbishing a kitchen or a bathroom. If you are planning to have tiles on the floor you don’t want to have to suffer from cold feet as a consequence. These days you can buy kits off the shelf for underfloor heating for tiles that come either as mats or as lengths of cable. All you need to do is lay them on the sub floor and then lay the tiles on top.

If you are looking for underfloor heating that will go under laminates or engineered wood planks then carbon film mats are the best option. Again these are easy to install and very thin so that there’s very little raising of the floor level. So if you thought underfloor heating meant digging up your sub floor, think again.

Even carpets can be heated from underneath, as long as the carpet itself isn’t too thick. Having a rug on a heated laminate floor will also work as the heat will build up underneath to make it a warm spot.

So if you’re thinking about installing conservatory underfloor heating by using electric underfloor heating kits you can dismiss all the rumours. Using underfloor heating as a viable way to heat some or all of your home. You’ll find that many people who install it in one room go on to install it in other rooms too.

it is branching up out of of the pipe that carries away the waste water. the dishwaher is next to the sink and also drains there I beleive.
it sticks up and ends just under the sink and has a white “cap” with holes in it.
would this setup release odors under my cabinet? I am having problem with odors under the sink
Thanks!
here is a photo:http://i789.photobucket.com/albums/yy179…

I bought a small counter top Haier dishwasher but since I have a pullout faucet, the fitting to connect the dishwasher water line does not fit.
What I’d like to do is take the soap dispenser out of my sink, and somehow split the hotwater line under the sink and run this for the dishwasher (through the hole where the soap dispenser was).
How it’s currently run is : pipe from basement>shutoff valve>3/8 compression fitting (on one end of the hose)>1/2inch pipe thread (other end of hose)>sink line.
So I guess what I need is something that can fit the end of the hose with the 1/2in pipe thread then splits and has two 1/2in pipe thread connectors on top.
Thanks!

I noticed some condensation in my passenger side headlight one day at my grandmother’s, so we lifted up the hood, and immediately noticed a dark color sort of splatter against the engine, so we figured something might be leaking…on closer inspection, we saw that it appeared as though the radiator was boiling over, and that there might be a crack in it. There’s rust in the front of the radiator and a little down below where the fan is. Obviously because of it being rust, I’m guessing that this has been an ongoing problem.
I’m only seventeen and to be honest, I don’t have anyone that I can turn to when it comes to cars…my parents are divorced, so my dad was obliged to buy the car and that’s it…so I really have no idea what I’m talking about but I’ll try…so here it goes, lol.
I let my car sit at work for the duration of my shift before taking off the radiator cap, and after looking in it, it looked really rusty…there were particles floating in it, and when I touched it, it had just a plain watery consistency. The overflow bottle was as dry as a bone, so I put a some 50/50 Pennzoil coolant/anti-freeze in it to the low mark. I drove the car back home, approx. 30 miles and after letting it sit a little longer, I checked the cap again. This time, it appeared as though the coolant had actually gone through, because inside of the radiator there was a greenish liquid now and it was oily instead of watery. So…I assume that the coolant was being pumped into the radiator.
I’m really afraid to go get it checked out, because I don’t want to only need a flush but then get told that the whole radiator needs replaced. I’ll be honest, I don’t think I can afford to get it fixed, but then again maybe I don’t know what kind of price I might be looking at.
What could have caused this problem? It’s a 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES with a little over 100k miles on it, I figured that old age and mileage might have just done it. Also, does it sound like it needs flushed, or replaced, or what? And would anyone know what kind of price I might be looking at for either? Finally, I don’t really know if something like this is minor or major, so I don’t know if I should be thinking about starting to consider if my car has a lot of time left in it or not. I just really don’t know, like I said, I’m only seventeen…and I’m a girl! Not that that means anything…=D lol. I’m just not knowledgable when it comes to cars…at all.

We have one of those rubber spray hoses for our sink and it ended up leaking quite a lot. So I thought I could turn off the pipe that the hose is connected to. The problem is that this turned off the hot water tap as well so I decided to go out and buy a compression blanking cap to just cap off the hose connection. So i removed the hose, attached the blanking cap quite tightly with a spanner and turned the water back on. But there is still a leak coming out from that connection and I don’t know why? Do I need to attach something else? And please don’t just tell me to tighten it, because it is as tight as it can go.
Thanks

I have been buying several decorating magazines and like the look of radiators on display in them which have the pipe work coming out of the wall instead of the floor from underneath.
However, I always thought that plumbing and pipes could not be chased into brick or solid walls due to the expansion of the pipes when they heat up.
Have you fitted radiators where you have put the pipes into a solid wall in order to neaten up the pipe work?
Ive seen some designer radiators that are halfway up walls and obviously you wouldnt have pipe work leading from the floor up to the radiator, it would compeltely ruin the look, so where do the pipes go?
Thanks

I moved in 5 months ago and had lots of plumbing problems. well two weeks ago. we found 3 feet off raw sewage in the crawl space under the house. well the last 2 months I been sick with dizzeness vomoting and bad stomach pain. when I went to the hospital the ran cat skan and blood work but really couldn’t tell what the promblem was and still is. I can’t afford to go to doctors. do you think its from the swewage?

I am in the process of finishing my basement. I purchased the house 3 yrs ago as a spec home. I was told by the builder that the basement was “rough plumbed” for a bathroom, but he had a “thin layer” of concrete poured over the plumbing in the event that the purchaser did not want to put in a bathroom. The builder marked the floor with a marker where he said the pipes for the toilet, tub, and sink would be at. I have drilled several holes with a masonry bit, chipped the concrete away down approximately 1″, and I can not locate where the pipes are. Any idea how I can locate the pipes?

We bought our house about a year ago. About a month ago, we noticed a very small leak from somewhere underneat the kitchen. The water is clear, the pipes look fine. About the same time, we’ve noticed that whenever we turn our cold water on, there is a “glunk” sound, then the water comes out, like it is delayed. We are young, first time homeowners without a clue on plumbing. Please Help!

We waste a lot of water at the kitchen sink because the hot water takes too long to come through. I’d like to install an under sink heater. There’s a 240V power socket there already. Ideally the unit would be really small and not require overflow plumbing.